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The state of the pasture.

August 16, 2010

Just a quick grass post.  I took these pictures several days ago and thought I may as well post them so you could see how the grass is doing.  Increasing the rest period/recovery period time is the best way to grow great grass.  It seems easy now to have enough grass to take us through the grazing season.  When we started out though – it was hard to see what would lie ahead as we moved through the pastures.


This is just after paddock shift.  Several species of grass and forbs have went to seed, but most of the sward is green.  Anything that doesn’t get eaten will get trampled and combined with manure and urine to fertilize the paddock.  As of today, my rest period has increased to 84 days.


This is where the cows were the day before.  You can see the difference.  The more manure coverage the better, and the more trampled forage (carbon) the better.  This is food for next years pasture.  I know it looks bad but remember it is one day that the cow herd was here, not all grazing season.  In a continuous grazing situation where the livestock has continual access year-round to the same pasture, the grass gets eaten shorter and shorter, cow pies are harder to avoid, and pretty soon you are feeding hay because the grass has been nipped to the nubs and can’t get out of the ground.

If you do run out of grass this time of year, (and we have) try feeding your hay in each paddock.  Move the cattle each day, but feed too.  You will still be getting the benefit of the herd impact – manure, urine, hoof action -  in addition to adding a little carbon from the hay they may waste that gets soiled.  I didn’t say it would be as convenient as just throwing the hay out on the ground in the barnyard, I am just suggesting this to folks who want to improve their pastures a little each year.  Think of it this way, would you rather pack hay or manure?  Hay smells good and is easy to carry or haul, manure, well, you know.  That’s why most manure stays were it lands, I just like the cow to place it where I want it.

This picture is important too, to show why portable fence works so much better than a fixed fence even if you are rotating your pastures.  If you look closely you can see that the cows graze near the fence but they will never poop there.  They hold their tails out when fertilizing your pasture for you, so you can see why they are reluctant to help you improve that piece of real estate.  This strip will be apparent by the grass growth or lack of it, the next time I build fence here, so I have to make sure that I move the fence line just a few feet next spring so this unfertilized band of pasture gets the full impact of the disturbance/rest cycle.

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24 Comments leave one →
  1. August 16, 2010 3:44 am

    I so appreciate your instructional posts about cattle-raising, rotational grazing and pasture improvement! I am a novice, very-small-scale farmer with just two cows (just harvested our two steers) and I have learned so much from your blog.

  2. peacefulacres permalink
    August 16, 2010 4:11 am

    Good advice …. ;) ;)

  3. August 16, 2010 5:46 am

    I don’t have cows or pasture, I hope to some day. I really appreciate your posts. They are very informative and interesting!

    • August 16, 2010 10:30 am

      Claudia, thanks I like reading about things I am not doing too – you never know when you might find something useful. :)

  4. August 16, 2010 5:57 am

    Our grass is great this year…..it looks much like your “before” picture.

  5. Tami permalink
    August 16, 2010 6:19 am

    Very good post. I think that is our next step, get the pastures even smaller, more intense and more rest. It is hard to get water to them if we get much more chopped up. Did you have to add tanks? Your posts always get me thinking and I then I have lots of ideas when the hubby gets home!:) Have a good week.

    • August 16, 2010 6:48 am

      Tami, I move my water each day to each paddock. With 20 head I am only using 2 – 100 gallon troughs. Light and easy to move. With our acreage so chopped up putting in permanent water was cost prohibitive and building lanes to central water spots wastes a lot of land, by putting on too much manure and traffic. It’s dry and hot this week so they are drinking almost 200 gallons per day, but if it is cool they usually only drink 100. If you had sheep they would drink even less. So in a nutshell, one 300 gallon potable water tank for the pickup for delivery, and two 100 gallon troughs for the paddocks, or sometimes I use a 300 gallon trough too. Although I hate moving that thing, rolling it is the easiest or sometimes I haul it. None of it as easy though, as when they just watered themselves at the springs :)

      Poor guy, you’re going make him scared to leave!

      • Tami permalink
        August 16, 2010 9:53 am

        Yes, we have the same issues with choppiness…is that a word? Your solution is probably going to work best for us too. 3 kids x what they can carry…hum, could be quite the chore, mix in some running from the momma cow if the dog follows, sounds like PE to me!:)

        Scared to leave, scared to come home…:)

  6. Kimberly permalink
    August 16, 2010 6:55 am

    I did not find a category for rotational grazing in the “categories” box to the right. That would be a good one to have IMO.

    I enjoy your articles and the info you provide.

    Thanks.

  7. August 16, 2010 9:56 am

    I have to say that I really like your rebar fence posts and bare wire approach. Cheap, easily fixed, easy to inspect.

    • August 16, 2010 10:36 am

      Bruce, that is for sure, so simple and long-lasting too. The posts never break and if the elk or “slow elk” bend them, it is easy to bend them straight again. With a bare wire it is either working or not and you can see the break, with polywire and tape you never really do know which part is failing you.

  8. August 16, 2010 10:01 am

    This is great information. Thank you so much for sharing this and explaining it all for us beginners and soon to be, beginners. :)

  9. Linda Zoldoske permalink
    August 16, 2010 10:39 am

    Your segments on building pasture have been wonderful. If I was younger I’d get some land and animals and put what I’m learning into practice!

  10. August 17, 2010 5:01 am

    I have a pressure canner question.. When I can whole and halved tomatoes in the pressure canner, it seems like quite a bit of the tomatoes and their liquid escapes and there’s a good inch gone after I take them out of the canner. When I can them in the water bath, less tomato escapes. Is this normal?? Plus, out of 7 quarts in the pressure canner, maybe only 4 get sealed and the other 3 don’t.

    I made and canned tomato/meat sauce and the recipe I used said 1-inch headspace. After pressure canning for 1 hour 20 minutes, 5 out of 7 sealed and all have a least 2 inches of headspace now. Am I doing something wrong? Hope you can help me… Thanks!

    • August 17, 2010 5:45 am

      Jenny, the jars are packed too full, or your pressure has fluctuated during processing. Your jars aren’t sealing because when the jar contents are forced out of the jar during processing, bits of food get under the lid and prevent a good seal. I would use the jars first that have the extra headspace, because the seal may not be strong enough to last for long term storage.
      I’m guessing you’re doing cold packing of your tomatoes, if so, they will expand quite a bit during the cooking process. If you use the hot pack method you can avoid any this, but hot pack is not as convenient as cold pack. So either your choice is to use cold pack, and don’t fill jars so full before processing, or use hot pack which requires heating your fruit or vegetables through before packing. It’s OK to re-process the jars that didn’t seal, but it is a pain and you may not want to cook your meat sauce again for an hour and 20 minutes. I don’t can any meat as a general rule, just because of the long cooking time. It’s easier to just add the meat to the sauce when I cook a meal. And despite any advice you get for saving money, don’t reuse the lids. It’s not worth it. Use the used lids for dry storage or freezing in jars. And don’t despair – this happens to veteran canners – or at least this one :D !

      Also have your gauge checked on your canner, it may be not working properly. Here some hardware stores and the extension service check them for free.

  11. August 19, 2010 8:20 am

    Well done! Great post again!

    Linda
    http://coloradofarmlife.wordpress.com/

  12. Pam permalink
    August 19, 2010 11:01 am

    OMG! That pie picture is amazing. Am I the only one that wants to run out, pick berries and bake?
    I echo the crowd with appreciation for all you share and teach, including your great bookshelf and how to sections.

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