Fork Etiquette
At a fancy dinner party, I have to think about which fork to grab pick up first. Just kidding, I never go to fancy dinner parties
But in the barn I never make a mistake. Not only is using the incorrect fork a major barn faux pas as far as cleanliness goes, it can make a job a lot harder. Forks are tools and each style and design has its own best use. Just like any other tool, most people wouldn’t use a tablespoon from their silverware set for baking, they would use a measuring spoon. It’s the same with pitchforks.

I use pitchforks many time during the day in winter when we are feeding hay. And while I can’t stop you from using the incorrect fork and creating more work for yourself, I will try to explain why I have different forks for different jobs. The most important rule in the barn I think is that a fork used for feeding never gets used for mucking out stalls or barns. Period. Parasite infestation is caused by ingesting manure particles or eating off the ground on soiled hay, in addition to close grazing. It’s winter now, and my cows aren’t grazing, so I am concentrating on ” keeping the feed clean” aspect of feeding. Of course, no self-respecting cow would knowingly eat manure, but in winter when feed is scarce and they have no choice, there you go – manure in the feed. You don’t want to see feeders with hay pulled out, and lying on the ground, a cow may not eat it if it soiled but a calf that hasn’t learned all the ropes of feed selection might. So it’s best to just not even let the manure and feed mix in the first place. Feeder design and space allotment has a lot to do with wasted hay, as does poor hay quality, but how you handle the feed too is important.

For feeding and shaking flakes of straw loose for bedding, a three-tined fork works well. A fork with more times offers too much resistance to do very much work. In other words it makes your arms hurt. Not to say you couldn’t use a five-tine manure fork for the job of pitching hay, but if you compared the two side by side, you would quickly find you favor the three tine fork. Our hay forks are always stored in the straw or hay never on the barn floor. They are easy to grab and always at the ready for skimming extra good hay that gets flipped out of the feeders on the personnel side, (that’s us, we work for the bos.)

Now mucking is a different story. Here a five-tine fork works better, allowing you to pick up soiled bedding and manure without the contents of your fork load slipping through.

Our stall cleaning utensils are stored near the stalls on the ground where they won’t come in any contact with hay stored nearby. Of course, you could store your tools in hangers nearby also, this is just the way we do it.
The other fork we use frequently too, is a spading fork to lift vegetables for harvesting. This fork also has it “only” job of digging food, never any barn chores. Likewise, a manure fork could be used to lift vegetables but really doesn’t work all that well due to its design, you’re less likely to stab a root with a blunt tined spading fork, not to mention any potential contamination of food.

Unfortunately, finding a well made fork these days isn’t as easy as it used to be, many are made in China these days and do not work well. If you can, scout garage sales, etc looking for older models.








Food Renegade
Simple, Green, Frugal Co-op
Your carrots look great! I’m hoping to be able to dig some beets and turnips today, to suppliment the poultry and add to our stew pot
)
We have several pitch forks and as you said they all have their own specific purpose. Same goes with hoes and shovels. LOL!!!
Blessings for your week,
Kelle
I’m laughing because I was completely snarky just a couple days ago with my husband because he ruined my favorite hay fork. He just doesn’t get why that would be such a BIG deal to me, lol. I’ve had that fork since I was a kid and it just keeps getting better.
I’ll bet you understand….
I’ve been on the hunt for a quality manure fork for a while now. (Those are words that I’d never have guessed I’d utter in my lifetime, but there you go.)
The hay fork was the hardest to find. Good digging forks are available if you want to pay the price (it is usually worth it, a $20 fork that doesn’t last a year isn’t a bargin compaired to my 10 year old $80 fork that is a joy to use…) Manure forks seem to be readily available (maybe because so much shxx get flung in the course of the day in our world…)
Good tips on the importance of keeping feed impliments clean. Those microbes are easy to transfer. Same is true for garden tools. I was remidede of that pruning tomatoes last year…
I LOVE YOUR POSTS! Next post will be identifying a well-made fork?
Thanks so much for this post. Clueless beginners like me never realized what the differences were for.
I (heart) my 70 year old bundle fork for bedding with….I don’t much like using the manure fork but take my turn like a good little wifey
I always learn so much from you ~ thanks!
Very good post. Where would we be without our forks ?
Linda – I wonder what you mean by ‘bundle’ fork.
Matron,
I had to sacrifice my 3-tine fork. My chicken coop is metal, and the 3-tine hay for just fits in the nest – and has become the defacto possum disposal tool, when combined with a good hammer.
I have looked, and a couple years ago came across a really large four-tined, quite old fork that I believe was used to load loose hay in the field. It works pretty well for the prairie grasses I put up each year.
I consider all my forks – even the ensilage and many-tined manure forks I picked up at auctions – to be precious tools. Not just because replacements cost $30 to $50, but because with use tines become smoother and even sharper. That, and I think the temper and durability of the older implements is better than the cast steel forks we have available in stores now.
And thanks for the reminder about keeping manure and feed forks separate.
So true the right fork is important. I am kind of glad I do not have to use those heavy forks again. I did for many a year. The good forks are worth the money if yours breaks it is not going to be a good day. Spring is coming and unfortunately their will be a lot of farm auctions because people cannot afford to farm and our population is aging fast in this business. We need the young to get into it to save it.
Even in my heavily rural/ag area there aren’t any decent forks in the stores, but they will special order one for you!
I only use a garden fork, right now, but I am watching for tolls for future endeavors. I have picked up a number of free forks with missing or broken handles. Does anyone have experience with replacing handles? Where should I look to find people that could handle that?
They replace handles at my local old-fashioned hardware store, but the handles aren’t great. The best I have found were at a threshing show that had a flea market featuring old farm related stuff. One handle I bought and replaced myself but the next year I just took my forlorn handle-less heads along and had the lovely handles put on by the expert.
Thanks, Lucy. I will look for an “old-time farm equipment event.” I think I saw some kind of farm history group at our state farm show. There is also a wood-working group at our community art center. They might be able to reproduce the broken handles from measurements.
Matriarchy,
The ‘tang’ of the fork, the part above the bar that joins the teeth that slips into the handle, comes in different sizes.
My hardware store is willing to order any handle they don’t have in stock, but you need to know the dimensions of that tang to get the right handle. You also need to know if the fork is a manure fork, or pitch fork, or what, ’cause handles come in various lengths and styles, and getting the right handle makes the tool a lot more productive. Measure to at least 1/32nd of an inch, if not 1/64ths. Many that I have seen were cast, or maybe rust pitted, but that difficult-to-measure, rough and irregular surface grabs the handle much better than if you try to sand or file the tang smooth and regular.
Mostly, they drill a hole up the inside of the handle, and you jam the handle down over the tang. If you get all the metal brace pieces and everything in place, it stays really well. Taking an old handle off is (and should be!) tougher. The one time I managed it, I used a hammer, a hacksaw, a vise, and an angle grinder. It wasn’t pretty, but I think I can repeat the performance with fewer exclamatory sounds next time. I like to saw off the damaged wood on the old handle, and keep the remainder. I keep thinking that I will find that solid, seasoned wood handy for something, and I sometimes do. (I have one I drilled a hole through, threaded a bit of leather lace thong for a loop, and use to tap tires when I don’t have an air pressure gauge handy. The sound of a soft tire is different than a fully inflated tire.) Short sections of the old handle can be used for a piece of wooden dowel in various projects, including a wood toolbox handle.
Remember the trailers for the old TV show, Green Acres? When Eddie Albert thumped the handle on the fork twice? That motion is common when your handle is loose – it temporarily jams the head back into place in the handle. Nothing will correct the problem (well, maybe epoxy, but that messes up replacing the handle), but you can get a lot of life out of a fork with a loose handle that way. The gentle acceleration of tapping the fork, held vertically with the head up, uses the weight of the head. When the handle hits the ground (or rock or cement), the sudden stop lets the weight of the head drive itself down into the handle. Each time you do this, it wears the handle a little bit looser, but is also useful when first installing a new handle on a head. (I do this also with loose or new hammer handles.) Using a light hammer on the bar to get the head started helped me install that new handle. Just be sure that any hammering is directly in line with the tang.
Luck!
LOL, my first replacement experience was very much like yours, which is why I opted to have the handle-maker do the rest! He showed me a few handles for each head and had me try them out to pick the one best for me. Perfect installed ash handle, $5. Can you tell I’m still excited?
It’s the “little” things that make life sweet! Happy perfect new fork handle day!
My two cents, is when you replace a handle, make sure the length and the feel of the handle feel correct for you. I am taller than my daughter and her shorter handled forks feel awkward to me if we are doing much work.
In my area, (Portland) here is a great place to get good tools and repairs.
http://www.redpigtools.com/servlet/StoreFront