It’s Not Water, It’s Food
farm visitor a couple of weeks ago asked, “Do you have any Queen Anne’s Lace?” Well, uh, we don’t have any…unless I go into the county right-of-way near our hedgerow were the conditions needed for good pasture are usually found wanting. I like the little lacy fellows along with ox-eye daisies just like any other good farm girl. But I draw the line at calling them pasture pretties! I do NOT want to see them in my fields. They indicate low humus in the soil among a myriad of other things, mainly hunger.

Now the summer lament in Western Oregon is, “Oh, if it would only rain…then my pasture would be green again.” True, rain and irrigation do help keep things green. But I view them as a crutch. We used to cry the same song when we ran out of grass in August and the pasture dried up to an unsightly tan carpet. Where is that darn rain when you need it? Shrug. Actually it’s never really rains here during the summer. We in Cascadia almost always have a long wet fall, winter and spring, and then the spigot turns off for the summer. Period.

We started taking steps some time ago to drought proof our farm. We dryland garden, we put in municipal water for emergencies while it was still affordable, and we learned through trial and error how to make our pastures more resilient during the summer drought period.

We still have plenty of grass for grazing. More in part from High Density, Short Duration grazing than from MiG. I still move the cows every day, but the pace is leisure with mob stocking compared to the old style management-intensive grazing we used to do. Not to knock MiG completely, but it was a frenetic pace, and we still ran out of grass come October. It’s easy to get ahead of yourself and make mistakes when you try to hit your paddocks six or seven times a year. If I remember right the MiG gurus call it forward acceleration. You go too fast through your paddocks and pretty soon you’re back to the beginning and depending on the year, maybe the grass isn’t rested enough, but you’re stuck. The cows gotta eat every day, so you let them eat and then the grass gets set back, again. And pretty soon, you’re scratching your head and ready to give up.
When that happens, you need to pull your stock and feed them hay to get over the hump. There are two times a year that your pasture shouldn’t be grazed, winter if you have pugging problems, and summer when your grass is bone dry and you’re doing the bandaid rain dance and hoping for a miracle to save you from what you have been doing to your pasture. What you did last year to your pasture is what is showing up now, and what you’re doing today will show up next year at this time. Hard to believe in our real-time world that what we see right now is a product of what we may have unknowingly done last year to our grass and the soil it grows in. Trust me I know all about “mistakes.” I am battling a hardpan in two greenhouses that saw pigs more than ten years ago. Give a pig a hog nipple, and they make a wallow. Soil is forgiving to a point and so are the plants that live there, but us humans need to get better at “seeing” and feeling what is beneath our feet. I am forever thankful for my brother who taught me to “feel” such things as soil, when to shift a transmission, air in the ram pipe and when a cow 40 acres away is “off.”

This is what the stockpile that I’m grazing right now looks like. The deer and calves have been wreaking havoc so some of it is mopped down. But if you stretch it out it is BH. (Breast Height) That’s pretty tall, and the undergrowth is green and lush with orchard grass, clovers and other forbs.
No stockpile and no grass right now? It might be time to address your stocking rate and/or grass management techniques. Maybe you have too many animals for your land or you are too lax with your grazing. A general rule of thumb is you can never move the stock too fast, but you can will usually move them too slow. Meaning it’s pretty easy to leave them too long to the detriment of the pasture. Rotational grazing takes discipline.
A good way to make a fake stockpile is to still move your “herd” daily but feed them in each paddock. While certainly labor intensive as far a hauling feed, at least you would be somewhat mimicking the mob grazed stock pile effect by adding carbon in addition to the manure the herd leaves. Any hay that doesn’t get consumed becomes fertilizer. And truth be told it’s about the same amount of chores and fuel used if you put your stock in a sacrifice paddock instead and had to gather the manure and then haul it to the pasture.

This is what I call resilience in my pastures now. Grass grazed in early August is coming back. No rain, just rest. The big factor at play here is that my grass is more resilient because:
♥ Tall grass has long roots that reach deep to moister soils which in turn makes the plants more resilient in an extended dry period.
♥ Grass that is allowed to express itself will be tall and have deep roots.
♥ Adding cows after the grass has been rested properly adds to the biological activity by trampling and manuring, as long as you don’t violate the second bite rule.

Even on the north slope of this pasture the grass grazed in late July is coming in nicely. I think the take away from seeing this in photos isn’t how wet western Oregon is and how easy it is to grow grass here, it’s how when your grass is alive and not dormant, it can take the rain that comes in fall and if the rains don’t come…at least your grass is plugging away growing and maintaining a healthy sward.
Most farm land I see these days is hungry more than thirsty. The steady exodus of farm livestock off the land over the last three decades has taken its toll. You can see it in the color, deep green and lush usually indicates livestock activity. Pale, wan and brittle usually means land devoid of animals. Healing takes time and livestock on farmland managed to their full potential are like a restorative salve. Make your pasture pretty, not with flowers but with green grass.

There is a place for pretty flowers especially for the habitat they provide for beneficials. Maybe just not in the pasture if we can help it.









Food Renegade
Simple, Green, Frugal Co-op
I can not thank you enough for the Joy you bring with each posting. Wisdom and beauty, what more could we ask for?
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Lee, Thank you!
You are so inspiring. I am hoping I can translate what you write about to my 4 acres and a few sheep.
Erika, thank you, I’m sure you’ll do great!
Very insightful, as always! At the moment, coming out of winter here in Australia, it is a dry period with no rain for several weeks, and the tropical pastures in our paddocks are dry and brown, but where we have grazed or slashed they are starting to grow back green. In our case, there is plenty of soil moisture from autumn rain, its the temperature that we are waiting for. I don’t know if its common in your area, but many farmers here burn their paddocks at this time of year, and the grass grows back green (but sparse) because of all the nitrogen released. I am always disappointed when I see that missed opportunity to graze or slash that grass and add organic matter instead of just wasting it!
Liz, they used to do field burning in the valley on the grass seed farms, but they’ve stopped that process. It didn’t affect us much here, but I don’t think it was a pleasant thing to be around. I miss the scent of it though, it meant late summer in Western Oregon.
http://www.oregonlive.com/politics/index.ssf/2009/06/oregon_legislature_bans_field.html
In spite of the fact that I don’t have livestock, I love reading about pasture management. I am always amazed at your insight and depth of knowledge on the subject. Thank you for sharing both.
I do have a small pasture that the original owner had horses on. Someday it may have animals again. I think it will need some work as it doesn’t seem to have enough variety of plants. I guess on the good side, there is no Queen Anne’s Lace….
dalebert, thank you!
Great post. Is that last year’s bull?
We’re stockpiling wood chips right now for future garden depth, bedding and swale fill. Also finalizing plans for ponds, orchards, tree lines and savanna pastures. So much remodeling, so little money. Here’s to drought resistance.
I still haven’t excluded my neighbor’s cows from my pasture but since I’m running goats, chickens and pigs in rotation I have seen some pretty impressive changes in pasture fertility and makeup, though I understand what you’re saying about hardpan under wallows. I’m anxious to begin my cattle rotation in the pasture instead of just the lawn and barnlot. I’ll need to increase my herd to the winter carrying capacity though.
We’re looking at 4″ of rain Friday night and Saturday. Feast of Famine. Aug. 2 they predicted 2″ and we got 4.5″. The pond filled up and the soil loosened up for a bit and it brought new life to the pasture but I hate to think what another rain like that will wash away…
HFS, yep, and Jane visited him yesterday…AI didn’t take the first time, AI guy busy… Possible replacement heifer? Maybe, but probably not. Just hope she’s bred! Dairy cows in heat are NOT FUN!!
Congrats on the rain…none here in sight for awhile I guess. The frost is but a dim memory, time for cover crop, and more canning.
All my sheet mulched areas in the gardens this year turned into a Back To Hell garden. Won’t make that mistake again
What do you think went wrong? Weed seeds? Did it suck out the nitrogen?
HFS, I think it was too far on the fungal side for good germination, rows right next to sheet composted areas germinated fine. Lots of nice looking mushrooms though… Despite our “long” growing season, we have a small window for some crops to be able to germinate and reach maturity due the coolness of our climate, we just can’t add to the heat unit column at a good rate. And in addition it gave the slugs too much cover
I learned a lot this season though. There weren’t really any weed seeds to contend with, since the sheet compost was oat or barley straw, and cow and horse manure…or I should say Jane and Willy manure.
But surely the fungal colonies will diminish over time. Do you have high hopes for those rows next season? If so, are we suggesting that where you live composting in a large pile and moving finished compost to the garden is better than sheet composting?
HFS, yes they will and the areas will be perfect…for NEXT YEAR
I will still sheet compost where appropriate – mostly because it is so convenient at stall cleaning time. (Translation – about half way to the compost pile area.) We’ll always have our stacked piles that I can mine, and what I use mostly these days is the partially composted hen house stuff. It’s like the sliced bread of compost!
You know, I probably wouldn’t have put it that way.
Okay, I changed it to a kinder, gentler comparison. Now I’ll be upsetting a gluten free person!
OH. I didn’t think it was bad. I thought it was hilarious. Read it to my wife. I just don’t think I would have thought of that comparison…
I would love to hear more about your dryland gardening techniques….thanks for all the great posts. Can’t wait to try mob grazing with….meat rabbits. Still looking for land, but I think by now we will know it when we see it.
Spudlust, pretty simple really, I grew up gardening that way and then kind of got hooked on irrigation
So back to basics, wide row spacing, and not too much crowding in-row, and maintaining a dust mulch. I like the Nordell’s term, bio-extensive gardening
Or Steve Solomon details it pretty well in Water-wise Gardening available in the Soil and Health library. I did water before the 100F degree heat spell though.
Loved the rabbit post!
Great post! Excited to put this knowledge to use next year when we finish steers for the first time. Looking forward to that delicious grass-fed beef (and healthy pastures!).
Great post! Could you expand upon the differences between your grazing management from when you were using MIG to now in using High Density, Short Duration? Are you using a lower total stocking rate now across the farm now? Thanks!
Cheeseplease, the difference now is that we mainly focus on achieving a longer rest period, which then allows to you to build a stockpile. We lowered our stock rate a small amount, but mostly because we wanted to quit doing hay on other peoples property, and just make hay here. It’s hard to make hay where the “management” amounts to just letting the grass grow…
I’m popping in with a quick question for you on this subject… have taken on a small herd of Devon cattle, mixed ages and genders, and am blessed with stockpiled pasture as no one was here to graze or mow until my grazers got here early August. So am rotating them with electric fence but had been giving them a lot more area just to ensure they had shade from pasture edge trees. What do you do for shade if you are just giving them 1/8 acre a day? I would assume some of those paddocks aren’t shaded; is that not a crucial issue in your climate? Would love to know your thoughts.
Not crucial, even on the hottest days here (100+F) my cows happened to be in paddocks where they had a choice, I projected my feelings on them during the day and felt guilty until I saw that they for the most part, were choosing the sunny parts of the paddocks. We don’t really have the humidity here with the heat, and my cows are red which helps.
You just have to decide if translocating all those nutrients to the trees that don’t need them outweighs your idea of cow comfort. I would think that at this time of year the sun is not as intense and the cows probably would be just fine. Polyface has a shademobile, but not for their large mob. I doubt Greg Judy does either. And another way to think about it is if you’re bent on providing shade then rethink your grazing pattern and save those areas for the days when you think your cows need shade. I think when you first start grazing the grazier (me included) tries too hard to make a concrete plan and stick to it, whereas now I go with the flow. I graze my cows all over the map (grazing map that is) to achieve what I need, whether it’s coming back near the corral for harvesting, skipping a southfacing slope in the strong sun of late July etc., I could write a post on just that alone. I used to be so rigid about it, and really missed some opportunities to enhance my land or not harm it in the process of grazing.
One thing you could try is to tighten up your paddocks and see if the cows are as stressed as you think. Observe them, if they are not hungry or too hot, you will probably find them ruminating and acting casual. If they are stressed you will probably see them all standing in a tight group and looking miserable.
Thanks so much, that really helps. My cows are red, too, which is a substantial advantage over the common black Angus common around here. All the old-timers of course, stress that shade is one of the most important elements. But these same guys set stock a 30 acre field (they all look like your neighbor’s in one of your posts) and will let their cows access an entire pond and stand out in the middle of it to keep cool, too. Cow comfort isn’t everything, I agree. But the humidity can be fierce, as it was yesterday. Eventually I’m going to build a shademobile/rainwater capture trailer for them, and that will enable me to put their poop where I want it. You are right, it doesn’t do any good up under the trees where grass doesn’t really grow anyway..
I just figured out my pace length for an eighth of an acre and I’m going to set their next paddock up that way, and observe their behavior carefully. They are a little spoiled so I’ll have to discriminate between bitchy bellering and real discomfort.
I would like to ask one more question about how you move them over distances to jump around the map, as you mention. I’ve done pretty well setting up lanes with posts and tape, and coaxing them to follow me; is that your approach as well? I always have my heart in my throat though, hoping they don’t get the idea to just bust on out sideways instead of moving along with me and the bucket of pellets I shake ahead of them.
OK, one more: generally speaking, what time of day do you move them?
I’m really grateful for your experience and willingness to put so much detail into your posts and answer comments and questions – thanks again,
Kay
TD, yeah I would have to say shade is important when you are free-ranging because the cows aren’t really getting all their needs met, i.e. enough food etc. Good luck with the idea on a shade mobile rain capture system. Here when they need shade there is no rain…but your climate may be different. I take water to each paddock, now when it’s hot I move the troughs daily for manure distribution, when its rainy and a trough will last 4 days I place the trough so it is easily accessed from all 4 paddocks. But that is spring or fall not summer!
I think the bellering may be hunger more than heat or discomfort. My cows don’t make much noise and when they do, I listen because it means I have done something wrong, it could be they don’t like the grass, someone is out, water is gone etc. They do moo to say Hi when I approach but like dogs have distinctive moos for different things. And I have a couple of demanding talkers that “know” me and they want their demands met. If I can’t ascertain what the problem is, and if it is just bad grass, I ignore them, they are part of the team and have to lump it, although I think my explanation “that this is for the greater good of the pasture…” falls kinda short in their eyes. Sometimes you just have to turn your back on them and stride away purposefully. The next day will be better
With rotational grazing you have the chance to fix your mistake the next day usually.
I do not use lanes unless I have to really catch someone, as in harvesting when I have an appointment at the abbatoir set up months in advance and I can’t have any screw ups. Most of the time I graze them to where they are going to go, so that is a lane of sorts, but I can also skip large portions of the field by doing that. Like quilting, you have to have an idea where you want to end up when you start. Once the relationship is established that every time you come to move them, they are getting a new patch of grass, you won’t need the grain. I keep some in the truck with me just in case I discover the whole herd “out” it really helps you keep your salvation when you need it most. For the most part, they come when I call, and I try not to call them unless I mean it. I also only build fence when it’s fence building time because the sound of me pounding posts gets them juiced up for a move. So if I need to layout paddocks ahead of time, I do it during moving time. That way they pay me no attention because they just got moved to a new paddock and I am actually being more efficient that way by only making one trip per day to the field. As a side note I work with the fence off and the cows respect the fence because when it is on they know it. I only use wire, no tape, or rope as I think the wire is more effective in delivering the charge. Tape and rope depend on all those little filaments to work, and constant rolling and unrolling cause them to break over time and become weak. Don’t ask me how I know…:( At least with the wire I can see if it broken and needs a patch, it’s obvious. We went through the tape and expensive rope thing here because my husband had to be able to see the fence, the cows didn’t need to see it, they knew it was there, but the human factor dictated that WE MUST SEE THAT FENCE! Never mind that a piece of plastic fence material is a mere suggestion to a large animal. Now that I am doing all the grazing the rope idea has been disbanded, and voilà less problems with animals getting out.
I move them in the afternoon, the brix is higher in the grass at that time and gives them a belly full of sugared grass. And always at approximately the same time if possible. Cows really appreciate routine and reward you with good behavior if you respect that, and they can tell time so I try not to mess with them too much. It only took Jane about 3 days to adjust to the 14/10 milking schedule, now she is waiting at the barn door for me at milking time. Cows are nice co-workers
And you’re entirely welcome – so glad you are on your land finally!
We are working our pastures over with chickens in tractors, but it seems slow. I did notice this year that the lovely clover patches, where the tractors have been, stayed green much longer than the other areas of the pasture. I also note more clover, which I know you have posted about before. I love that the clover attracts high volumes of bees, all the while fixing nitrogen too.
I would love to read more about the dry-gardening that you do. I was intrigued by this concept when I read Steve Solomon’s “Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades,” but would like to hear more about your own personal experience.